Get the Right Measure of your Sleeve Cap – Height

A good starting point for determining your specific cap height can be found using this method. This method would be used for a blouse sewing pattern, and it’s tailored to your body!

1. Put your muslin/toile on. (I used a sleeveless dress so it would be easier for you to see the simulation)
2. Sew a piece of elastic together and place it on the bicep area, aligning it to the bottom of your armhole when the arm is relaxed. (Check the Position in the mirror)
3. From the mark of your shoulder tip, tape the end of a measuring tape to the shoulder tip.
4. When the arm is relaxed, you get a longer measurement. You could use this as a starting point if you want a little more fullness in the look of the cap height.
5. As you lift the arm up, the measurement reduces. This measurement is also a good starting point as you’ll have a better lift. (For knits, always go with the shorter height as the fabric generally has a 4-way stretch)

Really any point between the relaxed and raised measurements can be good starting points. Your bicep measurement will also be taken into account when creating the sleeve, and this can affect the cap height in order to fit in the armhole.

The main factors of cap height in your sewing patterns are:
1. Armhole depth
2. Shoulder width
3. Arm Lift (raising the arms up to the sides)
In the next post, you’ll learn how to determine the cap width!

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.