Increasing the Back Width from Across the Armholes – Option 2

This is a bit of a design option for increasing the movement in the across back if it’s just too tight. I think it’s a great secondary option for increasing the movement and comfort in the across-back area. You can find the first option here.

The concept is adding a back yoke with a pleat coming from the yoke. The pleat will give more fabric to allow for better lift/movement. It can make the garment much more comfortable while also giving a nice design detail.
1. Decide the yoke position. The higher the yoke seam, the better the movement.
2. Mark the location where you want the pleats from the yoke seam to the hem.
3. Cut (slash) along that line.
4. Open (spread) the amount you want the pleat to become. It’s usually around 1/2” depth which is 1” total.
5. The new yoke seam should be drawn in and the notches for the pleat marked.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.

Learn the 3-Step Fitting Process:

A) Identify the Fitting Issue.

B) Pin, Cut, & Tape the Fitting Sample.

C) Correct the Sewing Pattern.

The Fitting Book Includes:

Tops

Pants

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My Secret in Diagonal Draglines

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