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Fixing Back Neck Gaping – Step 2: Darts

This is the sixth and last post of a series about neckline fitting corrections. This time you’ll see the second step to fix back neck gaping issues. If you still have back neck gaping after you’ve done the steps mentioned in the previous post, you’re going to continue with this step. Here, you will either be deepening an existing dart you already have on your pattern or adding a dart that doesn’t exist. You can choose where you want the dart to be: 1) at the neckline, or 2) at the shoulder seam.

1. Pin the excess of the back neck width in your desired dart location.
2. If you are pinning at the shoulder seam, it’s often easier to open up the shoulder seam.
3. Measure the amount pinned and noticed where the garment sits against the shoulder blades (this will become your dart length).
4. Come back to your pattern and mark the dart location for the width that you pinned and the length of your dart.
5. You can then turn that dart into a yoke or build it into a design line if you want to eliminate it.

Why would you need this dart on some people? Often it comes down to the curvature of the spine. The dart will allow for a closer fit in the neck and shoulder area.

Remember, if you have a princess seam, apply the same corrections used for the front neck panel. Find the corrections for princess seams from the armhole here, and for princess seams from the shoulder here.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.

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A) Identify the Fitting Issue.

B) Pin, Cut, & Tape the Fitting Sample.

C) Correct the Sewing Pattern.

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