What is Negative Ease in Sewing and How to Calculate It

In the previous videos, we’ve discussed wearing ease and a bit of design ease, but what role does negative ease play? Negative ease is a truly dynamic tool for creating sophisticated garments that fit like a glove. However, it is also a confusing concept for many, so let’s delve into it right now.

Before we talk about negative ease, let’s briefly revisit the definition of wearing ease. Wearing ease adds to the garment, allowing comfortable movement. However, negative ease takes a different path. It is when garment measurements match or fall below body measurements, yielding a negative value. The key to negative ease lies in fabric stretch.

The formula is simple: Garment/Pattern measurements – Body measurements = Ease amounts.

If the result is negative, you have negative ease.

Negative ease is important, sometimes even necessary, in achieving a snug fit in form-fitting garments. In fabrics with stretch, negative ease allows you to get the right shaping.

Negative ease may be needed around the shoulders, across front, and bust areas, where the fabric stretches to fit without darts or complex design lines.

Many people think that negative ease is exclusive to stretch fabrics. However, woven materials can benefit from it as well if they have some degree of stretch. This allows for a tailored, body-hugging fit that is a must for some garments.

To help you determine your ease amounts, download the FREE Wearing Ease Calculator now. By plugging in your measurements, you can cross-check if your project requires negative, ease, wearing ease, or design ease. Fill out the form above to get it right now!

Master Garment Ease: Make Pattern Corrections Before You Cut & Sew a Fitting Sample.