Full Bust Adjustment – Princess Seams

Please excuse my voice and stuffy nose in this video! My cold just won’t go away, and it seems to have taken over my weekend again…

This FBA is the best choice when you have diagonal lines on the side panel AND when the neckline/armholes sit nicely, close to the body. It works on princess-seamed garments.
Most sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes. So, if you have a larger bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a full bust adjustment.

1. If you have a tight bust area and diagonal drag lines on the side panel, cut open your sample as shown, stopping just before you get to the armhole.
2. Open the amount needed, tape, pin, and measure it.
3. Come back to the pattern and mark the line on your pattern exactly where you cut.
4. Now, pivot the side panel until you reach the amount you measured in your sample (step 2).
5. Let the CF panel drop down that same amount.
6. Fill in the curve of the bust on the side panel to make it nice and contour.

The nice thing about this adjustment is that it only increases the bust. The waist stays as it is and doesn’t increase.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.